As the weather changes and the seasons come and go, you may be wondering what you can do to keep your lawn looking its best and remaining the envy of your neighbours. This guide aims to provide all the tips and advice you need to keep your garden in tip-top condition come rain or shine.

Spring
The calendar, as far as your lawn is concerned, usually begins in March as spring arrives and your lawn begins to show the first signs of growth after its winter rest. This means that you will need to think about reviving your mower as your lawn will be ready for its first cut of the year. After removing any leaves or twigs which may be scattered over the area trim the top layer off your lawn using blades set no shorter that 2.5mm. The frequency of your mowing should increase the further into spring we progress. By the end of spring you should be mowing your lawn on a weekly basis, twice a week is sometimes best when growing conditions are at their peek, with the blades set to 2cm. It may also be advisable to apply a weed and feed and a spring fertiliser at this time.

Summer
As we move into the warmer climes of summer it is important to continue with your mowing routine, cutting your lawn once a week ensuring not to remove more than a third of the length at any one time. To avoid your lawn turning a less pleasant shade of brown and drying out in the summer heat, it is important to regularly water your garden. Though, as this may at times be problematic, it might be comforting to know that if your lawn does turn brown, it will be quick to recover as soon as the rain returns.

Autumn
With the approach of autumn and the cooler temperatures it brings, mowing is still recommended, though the frequency of this can be reduced to every two weeks with the blades set to 2.5cm. Now is the time to start preparing your lawn for the cold weather ahead. In order to aerate your lawn and increase drainage, it is advised to rake the grass to remove any moss, thatch or dead weeds which may have built up. Fallen leaves should also be removed as they may have damaging effects if left to cover your lawn. This is also the time for re-seeding or replacing any damaged areas. Application of an autumn fertiliser, one that is low in nitrogen and high in phosphate, will further help to keep your lawn healthy during this period.

Winter
After all that hard work, winter brings with it a well deserved rest. There are just a few tasks which remain to be completed; make sure all debris is removed from the lawn and improve drainage in any areas which may become waterlogged by spiking them with a garden fork. Finally, when winter truly sets in and the frost arrives, try to keep from walking on your lawn as best you can.

There are many factors contributing to the success or otherwise of a lawn. A main cause leading to failure is a compacted soil, which lacks oxygen in the root zone, and does not allow for the adequate infiltration of water. Other vital factors include a correct mowing regime, a suitable feeding programme, and periodic de-thatching. Adequate moisture though is the single most important question as to whether a grass will succeed or not.

Firstly, how much does your grass need? This depends on where you live and the lawn type you have. The perennial grasses in general use in hot, dry climates, such as varieties of Bermuda, Zoisia, Kikuyu, or Paspalon, “consume” moisture at some 50% of the daily evaporation rate for a particular area. In central Israel where I live, this average figure during the summer months is around 8mm per day, which means that lawns need some 4 liters per square meter per day. Contact your local meteorological station, to find out the figure for your locality.

The second question is how often you should water the grass. The grass types previously mentioned are deep rooting and actually do better on less frequent, but longer watering. Such a regime encourages the roots to grow deeper into the soil, making the grass hardier to drought, pests, and disease. Assuming that the depth of soil is over 50 cm, then an established lawn can be watered every 7-10 days in heavy, clay soils, 5-7 days in medium soil, and perhaps 3-5 days in light, sandy soils. If one has been irrigating frequently, but with much smaller amounts, then it makes sense to break into this new regime carefully, monitoring the results as you go.

To provide a personal example, I watered new lawns I put down this summer 3 times a day during the first week, once a day from the second week, and so on, so that by the end of the summer they will be irrigated once a week, but with proportionately greater amounts in accordance with the changing frequency. The lawns are every bit as green as those which are watered every day. Here is an example for calculating the amount of water to be applied in a particular locality, where the daily evaporation rate is 8mm, the area of lawn 30 square meters, and the soil of a medium/heavy type.

Quantity (liters) = Average daily evaporation rate * 50% * Area of lawn (square meters) * Interval between watering

Quantity (liters) = 8(mm) * 50% * 30 (square meters) * 7 (days) = 840 liters

How long should you water for? This is quite easily calculated by dividing the quantity that is required by the flow rate. (the amount of water emitted per hour) The flow rate can be discovered by registering how much water the system emits in say 10 minutes, and then multiplying that figure by 6 in order to arrive at the amount per hour. For example, if the quantity required is 840 liters, and the flow rate is 500 liters per hour, then watering time = 1 hour, 40 minutes.

One word of caution though. This method only works satisfactorily if the irrigation rate (the quantity of water emitted per hour relative to the area ) is low enough for the soil to absorb it. If there’s a lot of run-off from your lawn, then you should change the sprinkler nozzles to ones that emit less water per unit of time. Failing that, more water has to be added to the calculation, in order to compensate for the run-off.

Perhaps you are taking advantage of the reduced price of houses these days and moving in to a home that has a lawn irrigation system. These are also called a sprinkler system. When you are checking around for a home inspector consider using one that has inspected these systems before, most home inspectors are not trained on how to inspect them.

Sprinkler systems are a hidden luxury item that is typically found only on well maintained and more expensive homes and neighborhoods. If you are looking at a home with this type of system, ask your home inspector if he or she can take a look at it also. Ask the inspector about inspecting the irrigation system on the phone before you hire them. Many home inspectors are leery of inspecting such things because they do not inspect them often enough to become comfortable with them. Nearly all of the pipes for the sprinkler systems are buried and therefor can not been observed by anyone. Not seeing things can make one wonder what is there. The system can be inspected for basic operation and coverage.

Systems are set up with various zones typically. Each zone waters a specific area of the yard. The number of zones you can have varies with the size of your yard, needs and with the control system. Some systems can have up to 12 different watering zones. The timer control box nearly always placed in the garage. That box can be set on timer or on a manual mode. There are several brands available so ask the sellers if they have the operation manual available. If not often there are instructions on the box itself or you can do an Internet search for the materials.

The inspector should rotate though each zone setting on the control box and walking out to each area of the yard to see what part of the yard each zone roughly covers and to look for non functioning sprinkler heads. Often you the home buyer will be shown the zones so you can learn them also.

Look for an inspector who has had some training and experience with these systems, asking your real estate agent is a good place to start as well as doing an Internet search. Estimates for a lawn irrigation system are in the area of a 2,500 square foot lawn may averaging $2500. So this could be an expensive item to completely replace. So be certain to have it inspected along with your house.

Installing lawn sprinkler system is a major task to be sure. However, with proper planning, you can put a system in place that will do everything you want. Let’s look at the key steps for installing lawn sprinkler system.

1. Map out your property

You will need an accurate map of your lot to avoid problems during installation. Be sure to note obstructions, potential interferences with existing in-ground lines, and existing structures on the property

2. Verify pressure and flow rate

For a system like this to get the job done, you need 40-50 psi of water pressure to make it work. Check with your water company to learn about their supply pressure, or get a pressure gauge from a plumbing supply house.

3. Lay out your spray patterns

Based on the shape of your yard and the range of the sprinkler heads you have selected, map out the number of sprinklers you need to get good coverage. You should plan for an overlap of 50% to ensure all parts of the lawn get enough water.

4. List out the equipment you will need

Once you have the spray pattern layout done, make a list of all of the equipment you will need to do the job. This includes piping, fittings, control valves, risers, sprinklers, manifolds and controllers. You may want to have some extra components on hand in case a few items break during installation.

5. Test your pipe lengths

When you have all of your piping in hand, do a test layout in the lawn to make sure you can reach all of the areas.

6. Dig your pipe trenches

The trench for the pipe needs to be 3-4 inches wide and 8-10 inches deep. Use a stake and string method to keep your trench digging in line, this will help avoid problems during the assembly.

7. Lay out and fit the pipe in the trench

Do one more fit check with the pipe to verify the necessary length

8. Cut and glue piping in place

Use a brush-on primer to prepare both ends of the connection. Follow up with the adhesive, then insert and twist the pipe a quarter turn. Hold the pipe in place for about 20 seconds to allow the adhesive to set.

9. Tap into the home water supply

You will need to shut off the water supply to begin this operation. Whether you tap in at a faucet, the main line or a basement connection, you need to set up a compression tee fitting in the line, usually by cutting the line and inserting the tee. Use a shutoff valve to enable separation between the water supply and the sprinkler system. Once this is done, you can tie into the manifold of your sprinkler system.

10. Attach risers

Risers are used to position the sprinkler heads into the proper position for watering. Cut the pipe at each sprinkler location and install a tee fitting, then attach the riser.

11. Flush the system

You will want to flush out any dirt and debris that remains in the piping system to avoid clogged sprinkler heads. Turn on the water supply and run for a few minutes to clear the pipes.

12. Attach the sprinkler heads

Screw on each sprinkler head, making sure you have properly positioned each head for the desired spray coverage.

13. Install your controller or timer

A controller or timer allows you to determine the time and duration of a watering cycle with your system. Be sure your controller is protected from rain and freezing weather. A garage or basement is a good location for this item.

14. Test the system

Fill in the trenches with dirt and sod, and do a full system test. If there are no leaks or clogs, you are ready to go!

Installing lawn sprinkler system can be a very involved task. These tips will get you on the right track to successfully installing a sprinkler system that will serve you for years to come!

Technically speaking, one is irrigating one’s garden lawn when one turns a hosepipe on it, or tramples all over it with a watering can. The true spirit of the word “irrigation”, one supposes, has more to do with finding modern and efficient ways to bring water to the grass. After all, the word irrigation does imply water conservation: it was originally coined to refer to an agricultural process whereby land that received very little water could husband that liquid well enough to produce proper crops. Modern garden watering systems, fortunately, tend to apply a lot better to the spirit of the word than they did even 10 years ago.

The modern garden lawn can be irrigated without effort, by installing a pop up sprinkler system. The pop up sprinkler takes its water from a series of pipes laid under the turf: the head, or heads, of the sprinkler system is, or are, hidden from view. When the water is turned on, the pressure in the pipes forces the sprinkler head or heads up above ground level, where they deliver the required amount of liquid before returning to their holes. Because the grass grows above the level of the sprinkler heads, they can’t be seen until they rise up and start shooting thus making modern garden lawn irrigation pretty tidy as well as water efficient.

How is it water efficient? Well, the sprinkler system is controlled to deliver an exact quantity of water – the right amount for the area. That means no wastage and, because the sprinkler nozzles are designed and spaced to give a completely even spray, no missed areas. Every drop counts and no one part of the lawn is treated to overkill.

The sprinkler system can be controlled manually, by simply turning a normal garden tap on and off. The manual sprinkler system is connected directly to the tap nozzle – effectively it just becomes a super efficient hose. For more complex watering requirements or larger gardens (not to mention, of course, directed and waste free holiday watering) the garden lawn watering system can be controlled instead by an electronic master pad, which can be programmed to deliver all sorts of variations, levels of water and so on.

There’s no limit to the size of lawn a sprinkler system can usefully irrigate – one just adds on more heads for larger gardens. Stockists like Amazon Irrigation can advise on the correct type of sprinkler heads to use, the right diameter piping for optimum pressure and the quantity and spacing of heads necessary to ensure even coverage. For very large gardens, bigger heads and even turbine power sprinklers can be used.

Watering the garden lawn, then, can be as easy and as waste free as one wish to make it. A standard Colibri starter pack really isn’t very expensive either. No excuses then. Out with the old, in with the environmental friendly.